Cartmel

Cartmel is a small, very pretty village on the Cartmel peninsula, a few miles from the Morecambe Bay shore. It grew up around its priory, founded in the twelfth century, and its great church, Cartmel Priory, survived the dissolution because the villagers argued it was their parish church. Inside it is far grander than the size of the village suggests, with carved choir stalls and a fine east window.

The village is known well beyond Cumbria for food. Cartmel sticky toffee pudding was first sold at the village shop in 1984 and is now sold across the country. In 2002 the chef Simon Rogan opened L'Enclume here, and the village has become a destination for serious dining, with other restaurants, a cheese shop and a good pub or two around the square. The Priory Gatehouse, owned by the National Trust, stands on the square itself.

Cartmel Racecourse, on the edge of the village, holds race meetings a few times a year, most famously over the late May and August bank holidays, when the village fills with racegoers. Holker Hall and its gardens are a short drive away near Cark. Walkers can climb Hampsfell from here to the Hospice above Grange. Outside race days, the best plan is to walk Hampsfell or visit Holker in the morning and come back to the village for a long lunch.

On race days the village is packed and parking is very difficult. At other times it is quiet and easy, though the lanes in are narrow. Book ahead for the restaurants, especially at weekends.